![]() I could lean my head over the exposed cross-section of the fillet, take in the fragrant steam and effectively give myself a Gadus morhua facial. ![]() If you have a preference, it never hurts to ask for it.īreaking through the batter of each contender for Top-10 honours was crunch time: I could judge how well the flakes of cod retained their firmness, moisture and freshness. A thinner fillet from the tail portion will close the distance between the top and bottom layers of batter, however, producing a crispy sandwiching effect cherished by tail-enders. Don’t let me stop you.) I am partial to prime fillets cut from the cod loin, the fat middle section, yielding superbly chunky flakes of firm fish. I focused my comparative tasting on a single fish, Atlantic cod, risking the wrath of haddock hounds. “You’re never going to keep everyone happy.” “With fish and chips, people like different things,” warns Crook. That’s made it easy for me to maintain neutrality and dodge the great fish-and-chip debates: cod vs. I may live in London but, as a transplanted New Yorker, I have no tribal loyalties towards any regional style or tradition. Too hot to eat straight away but too good not to.Īs delectable detached from its batter as was the batter detached from it. To be short-listed for my Top 10 Fish and Chips in London list, the battered fish had to be: “You don’t want to get rid of every last drop of oil,” says Andrew Crook, president of the National Federation of Fish Friers. The very ingredient that dehydrates the batter to the point of optimum crispness turns it moist and melty. But though the frying oil should never seep through the protective barrier, a small amount will be absorbed by it. You might not care to see residues of frying oil on the bottom of your plate, or feel an oily trace left on your palate. The coming of the cod and the waves of mildly sweet flavour from dense, steamy flakes of contentment.īefore you rush on to the next bite, pause for the aftertaste of the batter, with a note of oil. The satisfying “fried” taste of the batter as it breaks down in your teeth and melts in your mouth. The audible crunch as your teeth pierce the golden batter and its airy network of minuscule bubbles. David Miller, Head of Training at the National Federation of Fish Friers, divides the tasting experience into three successive sensations:
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